Refactor

Strata Repairs and Maintenance

Lesson 9: Door handles and locks

Goal: replace a lever set so it fits first time, fix the common faults, and know which lock jobs belong to a locksmith.

The parts

A door seen from the face with a lever set. A lever on a round rose; a square spindle passes through the latch, which runs through the door edge. The backset, 60 or 70 mm, is measured from the door edge to the centre of the rose. The handle centre is about 1 m above the floor. The bore through the door is usually 54 mm and the latch hole in the edge about 25 mm.
A tubular latch and lever set, and the measurement that matters most. Tap to enlarge.

Most internal doors in Australian apartments have a tubular latch (a round barrel in a bored hole) with a lever set on a round rose or a rectangular plate. Front doors and doors on common areas often have a mortice lock: a rectangular box set into a slot in the door edge, with a cylinder for the key and levers on plates.

Close-up of two black lever handles on the edges of a pair of white French doors with white blinds behind the glass.
Lever handles. Levers are easier than knobs for people with weak hands or arthritis, and are expected on accessible doors. Photo: marya, CC BY 2.0

Passage, privacy or entrance?

Function Where How it works
Passage Corridors, cupboards, common rooms that don’t lock Latch only, levers on both sides
Privacy Common toilets, bathrooms Turn snib inside; emergency release (a slot) outside
Entrance Bin room, plant room, storage, office Key outside, turn or button inside
Store room / classroom Plant rooms that should always lock Outside lever always locked, opens with the key

Buy the same function as the one you’re replacing, in the building’s standard brand and finish where you can.

Before you buy: measure

  1. Backset: door edge to the centre of the existing handle. Usually 60 mm (most internal doors) or 70 mm.
  2. Door thickness: usually 35 mm internal, 40 mm or more for front and fire doors. Check the set’s range.
  3. Handing: most levers are reversible, but some plates are left or right handed.
  4. Latch face: round-corner, square-corner or a drive-in latch; match the existing cut-out in the edge.
  5. Rose or plate size, and whether new screw holes will land on the old ones, so you’re not left with marks.

Practitioner tip: take the old latch with you to the hardware shop, or photograph it next to a tape measure.

Replacing a lever set

  1. Remove the screws on the inside rose (some have a small grub screw under the lever: use a 2.5 or 3 mm Allen key) and pull the levers off both sides.
  2. Remove the two screws holding the latch face in the door edge and slide the latch out.
  3. Fit the new latch with the bevel facing the way the door closes (the sloped side hits the strike first).
  4. Slide the spindle through the latch, fit the outside lever and rose, then the inside, and screw them together through the door. Don’t overtighten: it makes the lever stiff.
  5. Check the lever springs back level, the latch retracts fully, and on privacy and entrance sets that the lock works from both sides and the emergency release opens it.
  6. Close the door gently and check the latch catches the strike (below).

Common faults

Fault Usual cause Fix
Lever loose or wobbly Grub screw or through-bolts worked loose Tighten; add thread-locking compound to grub screws
Lever droops and doesn’t spring back Return spring in the rose broken or weak Replace the rose or the whole set
Latch won’t catch Door has dropped, frame moved, strike misaligned Tighten hinge screws (Lesson 10); move or file the strike plate
Latch sticks in Paint in the latch hole, latch dry or broken Clean, a dry graphite or PTFE lubricant; replace if broken
Door rattles when shut Gap between latch and strike Bend the strike’s tongue in slightly, or fit a new strike

To find where the latch hits, rub a little crayon or lipstick on the latch, close the door, and see where the mark lands on the frame. Move the strike plate to match, or file the opening a couple of millimetres.

Locks, keys and the locksmith

A brass mortice lock body showing its faceplate with a latch bolt and a deadbolt, beside its matching strike plate.
A mortice lock and its strike plate. On apartment front doors and fire doors, these are fire-rated and must be replaced like for like. Photo: Heron2, CC BY-SA 3.0

Leave these to a locksmith:

  • Master key systems. Most strata buildings have one: a master key opens the plant rooms, bin room and common doors, and residents’ keys fit their own door and the entry. Changing a cylinder or cutting a key in the wrong profile breaks the system. Restricted keys can only be cut by the locksmith who holds the system.
  • Rekeying and changing cylinders, and anything on an access control or intercom system.
  • The law (NSW): changing or repairing locks for payment needs a Class 2 security licence. Queensland licenses security equipment installers. If you’re paid by the job, check your state’s rules before you touch a lock.

Apartment front doors and fire doors

The law: in most multi-storey apartment buildings, the front doors of the apartments and the doors to stairwells are fire doors, required by the National Construction Code to stop fire and smoke spreading into the escape routes. They have a metal compliance tag on the hinge edge, and must be self-closing and self-latching.

That changes what anyone can do to them:

  • Replace hardware only like for like with hardware approved for that door. A different lock, a new hole for a deadbolt or a peephole, or a pet door can void the door’s certification.
  • Don’t paint over the tag, and don’t remove or wedge the closer.
  • Residents who want a different lock on their front door need body corporate approval and a fire door specialist.

This is why Lesson 1 sends fire door work to a specialist. Your part is to notice and report: a door that doesn’t close and latch by itself, a missing tag, a new deadbolt someone has fitted.

At Jacaranda Court

The bin room lever droops and the door doesn’t latch, so the room is left open to anyone. You find the return spring broken. It’s an entrance function set on the master key system, so you order the same brand and function from the building’s locksmith, with the cylinder keyed to the system. While you wait, you tighten the hinge screws and move the strike plate 2 mm so the latch catches. When the new set arrives, the locksmith fits the cylinder and you’re the second set of hands.

On the job 9

Walk your building and list every door’s function (passage, privacy, entrance, fire door). Note any fire door that doesn’t close and latch by itself, and report them.

Sources

Quick quiz

Pick an answer for each question. Nothing is recorded.

  1. What is the backset?
    Show answer

    Answer: The distance from the door edge to the centre of the handle. Backset is measured from the edge of the door to the centre of the bore. In Australia it is usually 60 or 70 mm, and a lever set must match it.

  2. A resident wants to fit an extra deadbolt to their fire-rated apartment front door. What do you tell them?
    Show answer

    Answer: It may stop the door being a compliant fire door; it needs approval and approved hardware. Extra holes and locks can void a fire door's certification and can stop it self-latching. It needs body corporate approval and a fire door specialist.

  3. The latch on a common room door no longer catches when the door closes. The first thing to check?
    Show answer

    Answer: Whether the latch lines up with the strike plate hole. Doors drop and frames move, so the latch misses the strike. Adjusting or filing the strike, or tightening the hinges, usually fixes it.

General education, not trade or legal advice. Licence limits, asbestos rules and window safety laws differ by state and change, so check your regulator before you quote or start. If a job involves electricity, plumbing, gas, waterproofing, fire doors or anything you think may contain asbestos, stop and get the right licensed trade.

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